Lupo Italian Kitchen
Let’s start with an unfortunate fact: there is no high-end Italian food in Delmarva, only resort quality offerings and cooking, at best. Even quality Italian food in the Delmarva beach area is a rarity; sure, there are plenty of imposters boasting of grandma’s cooking, fresh ingredients, and special gravy based upon centuries of Calabria recipes, but upon close examination, none of them measure-up to old world Italia cooking. Lupo, despite being yet another entry in the SoDel Concepts local food empire, perhaps measures closest to quasi-traditional Italian cooking, but with a modern American approach – unfortunately necessary in a resort town catering to summer tourists accustomed to their local chain restaurants. Upon tasting its various primi dishes, it’s easy to see why Lupo has been part of the Italian dining fabric of Rehoboth Beach for so long. The restaurant is reassuringly familiar, classically SoDel in service and delivery, and, even when you know what’s coming next, still eminently satisfying. The menu is a roll-call of Italian favorites, from pasta, eggplant and chicken parmesan, to linguini and clams and a delightful pasta Bolognese. Cocktails are well made, and Lupo is a Wine Spectator Award of Excellence winner seven years running. Dishes are executed with sufficient care and portions are manageable. The room is simple but appealing, and large windows pull in the occasional passerby. Service is personable and willing too, although after all this time, Lupo could probably run itself. Lupo is not the best Italian at the beach, but among the better options, as close to ‘real’ Italian cooking as may be found in Delmarva. Until somebody invests in a restaurant preparing authentic, homeland ingredients and old world recipes, Lupo is the among the better imposters around, especially if you desire the closest thing to nonna’s cooking.
